Thursday, August 2, 2012

SE Asia Holiday Part 3: CHIANG MAI!

After Sukothai, the group braved another long bus ride to Chiang Mai, the largest and most culturally significant city in Northern Thailand.  There are so many activity options here that the bus stayed two nights here.   My first chosen activity was a Thai Cooking Class!

Anna, Vicky, Chris and I enrolled in a night class at "Smart Cook Thai Cookery School".   We got to pick which appetizer, curry, main dish, and dessert we wanted to make.
But first, our teacher, Nee, took us to the local market and taught us a bit about some of the ingredients.  Here below she's lecturing us on the different heats of peppers.  Yum!

Here's our class, hard at work doing the prep work for our Thai meals.

Chef Linz, using the big sharp knife!

And the fun mortar and pestle!


And then slaving over the stove!

And.. my final creations!
*drumroll please!*

Papaya salad....

Penang Curry...

Fried basil chicken...

And last, but definitely not least---
Mango Sticky Rice!
Everything was AMAZING!   I must say that Mango Sticky Rice has to be the most amazing dessert in the history of desserts.  I could eat it everyday.  I even ate it for breakfast one day on the trip!  Deliciousness.
After our night of Thai cookery, we received official diplomas (add that one to the resume!) and a recipe book so we could repeat everything at home.  Fun!

The next day was one of the best of the trip- I spent the day learning how to be a 'mahout', aka a Thai elephant trainer!
We were picked up at our hotel and a van drove us to "Jumbo Elephant Camp".  

For the real experience (and so our own clothes didn't get disgustingly dirty/smelly), we got fun mahout outfits, and a bag full of elephant snacks (bananas and pineapple!).

First, our teacher taught us all about the elephants at the camp.  Most of them were around 40 years old.   The lighter the skin, the older they are.
Our first introduction was just offering them some snacks.  It's important to feed them front the front, as their peripheral vision is bad.

Next, they came out from behind their fence, and things started getting up close and personal ;)
Smooch!   Big fat elephant kisses!


Next up we learned the commands on how to control this big boys (or shall I say, girls!)
 'how' ---> stop
'bai' ---> go forward
'ben' ---> turn (while kneeing them in the ear of which direction)
'bone' ---> use your trunk to pick something up
'song' ---> kneel down, I'm getting on!

Sooo... here we go!

SONG!

(It wasn't easy climbing up!)


BAI!

BONE!

And probably the most fun part was getting down by sliding down her trunk!
Whee!

What an awesome morning!  The staff at the camp cooked us a delicious Thai lunch, and then we went for a longer ride that afternoon.
Here are tourmates Chris and Vicky having a blast.  Woo, bareback riding!

Here is Jana and myself, enjoying a little jungle ride.  (Jana was not so sure of the whole thing early on ;) )

Did you know elephants eat about 200 kg (that's 440 lbs) of food a DAY?   Of course Mika (our elephant) got a little hungry on our trek, and stopped for a bamboo snack.

This photo makes Mika look so tall!

Look ma, no hands!

Since elephant training isn't all fun and games, we had to do some work too--- aka bathing the elephants!

They loved it!  I'm sure the cool river water felt great on their super dry skin.


On the way home after an AWESOME day, we stopped at a neighbouring elephant camp to see a newborn elephant baby!  This little munchin was only TWO DAYS OLD!
Total cuteness!

As if the day couldn't get any better, that night, a bunch of our group went to a Muay Thai boxing Match!
Here was the list of fights on for the night.

The not-so-cool part of the night were the first couple fights, which were small children.  Ugh, not easy to watch.  These kids were quite tough, though!    One must remember the culture difference, as Thai parents and family were proud of their kids in the ring, just as Western parents would be proud of their child at a dance recital or a soccer game.

Lady Fighters!  They were tough as nails, too.


And the best part of the night was the Main Event--- USA vs Thailand!
I was so pumped to cheer for my country!  (The guy on the left is the American).  And he won, in 3 rounds! I went up to him after the match to say congrats.  We got talking.... he was from Jersey!  Small world.

Here I am with two of the Thai fighters of the night.  
Did I mention our seats were ringside?  Awesome.

The next day the tourbus was leaving around noon.  I had the option of sleeping in.  No thanks, I wanted to learn how to be a Muay Thai Boxer!   
I booked two hours of training with a local coach.  His name was Ploykheaw.   He was 50 years old. He fitted me up with some fancy boxing shorts, taped up my toes, and rubbed me down with minty smelling Boxing Liniment Oil, which heated up, just like Icy Hot.

Onto to training!

*Insert "Eye of the Tiger" theme music here*





He worked me tough!  I learned the proper way to punch, elbow, block, knee, and kick, along with the resting stance.  I was sweating bullets (80 degrees outside, no a/c inside)  and sucked down about two liters of water in two hrs.  Every so often, he massaged me with ice water (SO NICE!) then it was back to the training.  We had several good sparring fests, too.   
My teacher was very impressed at how strong I was, and that I was single.  He wanted to come back to America with me so he could train me and we could make "big money".  HA!


A quick pose with coach before calling it a day.

I was sore for DAYS!   Thank goodness that Thai Massage parlors are on basically every corner, with an hour Thai full body massage costing about 5 US dollars!

So, that wraps up my awesome time in Chiang Mai.  Thanks for reading!

Wednesday, August 1, 2012

SE Asia Holiday Part 2: SUKOTHAI!

So after my first day of solo exploring in Thailand, it was time to join my group and bus tour!

I used an agency called Stray, they are very popular in New Zealand and just recently branched out to touring SE Asia.  I met the group and our guide at the Stray Office in downtown Bangkok in the morning, and off we were!
A minivan took us to the Bangkok bus station, where we'd board our (non-Stray) bus to Sukothai.

Here are Anna and Chris waiting patiently for our double decker bus departure. :)

The bus station was a nasty reminder of air pollution-- after two years in New Zealand, it had been a long time since I saw so many carbon emissions happening in one small place... YUCK!


Our four hour bus ride was pretty straightforward (thank goodness for air conditioning!).    We arrived in Sukothai late afternoon, and our first stop was here!

BIKE HIRE!  We rented bikes and cruised off to explore the Sukothai Historical Park.


Sukothai means "Dawn of Happiness".    It was the first kingdom of Siam, established about 800 years ago.   It's a very small town with the park being its only real attraction.  The Historical Park has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  As you can see above, the city is walled, and inside the walls are a grand palace and 26 temples.

Below is what's left of the "wall"--- just a bit hump of ground!  I was expecting something a bit more...let's say... protective?


It was great fun biking around the park and seeing all the ruins.



 There were a LOT of Buddhas here (and all over SE Asia!).  I learned to pay attention to the pose they are in, as each means something different.  The three Buddhas below show the common pose called "Earth Touching".  The right hand is resting on the knee with the fingers facing downward, just about "touching" the earth.  When the Buddha attained enlightenment, he called on earth to witness it, thus the symbolism of this pose.  The left hand is resting in the lap, palm up, in the mudra (hand gesture) of meditation.  The combination of these hand poses represents the union of wisdom and method, Nirvana and Samasra.   




LOTS and LOTS of bricks here!

Despite all the amazing ruins to see, one of our more observant tourgroup members spotted this guy-  a blue headed lizard, climbing up a tree!

 A fun first day of my Stray tour, seeing the ruins of Sukothai by snazzy pink beach cruiser.


SE Asia Holiday Part 1: BANGKOK!

Mid June, I was on my last locums assignment in New Zealand.  The Australia registration was still pending.  I had three weeks before I was to (tentatively) start work in Australia.   What's a girl to do?!   The weather was getting cold in NZ, so tramping was not the best idea.   I thought to myself  "I may never have three weeks off in a row ever again in my LIFE" (well except maybe maternity or surgery reasons!), so I decided to take a 3 week trip somewhere completely new to me--- ASIA!   In particular, Southeast Asia--- Thailand and Laos.

I booked a bus tour that was 18 days long, that covered Northern Thailand and pretty much straight through Laos, with various stops along the way.   I had a whole day free in Bangkok before the tour started... so off exploring I went!

This is Khaosan Road, a short street in Central Bangkok.  This is where most of the backpackers stay/eat/party, as accomodation is cheap.  Plenty of hostels, food carts, and shopping stalls.

Call me weird for posting this, but my first odd finding in SE Asia were the hotel bathrooms--- there was no real separate shower stall--- just the shower head on the wall that got EVERTHING in the bathroom wet when you took a shower!
Some fancier hotels have plastic covers over the toilet paper roll holders so your TP didn't get soaked and yucky... in all the others, you just had to remember to remove the TP outside of the bathroom during your shower :)

Here's a photo of a nice lovely Bangkok intersection.  Yeah, very thankful I didn't have to drive in this city!

#1 Lesson of Bangkok- the city is full of scammers!  I read about them in my Lonely Planet book, what to watch out for... friendly people come up and talk to you, tell you that "today is a Buddhist holiday" and that "all the temples are closed in the morning" and "for 10 baht (30 cents) a tuk tuk tour of the town"--- where they actually take you to random shops way out of town and pressure you to buy stuff (think Time Share, only worse).   I had JUST read about these scams the night before on the planeride, and what do you know, the next morning I just about fell for one!  So, five minutes into the tuk tuk ride, I told the driver to pull over and let me out.   He gave me a bit of a hard time, but then I decided it'd be best to see the rest of the city on foot.  

I found a nice itinerary for a walking tour of Bangkok.  No more scams for me! I will find my own way around!
You can't go to Bangkok without visiting the Grand Palace.  It's a walled whole community of buildings, halls, pavillions, etc.   The Palace was the official residence of all the Kings of Siam (and Thailand) from 1782 until 1925.  
There is a dress code for sacred sites like this--- long shirts, long pants/skirts, and shoes off when entering the temple.   Awesome weather for clothes like this too:  35 deg C (95 deg F!) and like 95 billion percent humidity.  Gross.

Lots of gold painting.  LOTS.



Shoes off!




My walking tour continued.  The itinerary took me down a "typical" Bangkok residental side street.  I kind of felt like I was intruding--- the locals probably just thought I was lost.  :)   It was neat to see into the houses, where folks were just lounging on the floor on a mattress, napping (Thai people sleep anywhere and everywhere, probably because it's so damn hot!), kids playing games on the floor, another lady frying up a whole chicken in a vat of oil....

Back to the more tourist parts--- the markets!   Tons of food to eat.  The cart on the left was my favorite type--- FRESH FRUIT!  Watermelon, mango, pineapple.... 10 baht (30 cents) a bag.  MMMM refreshing!

Off to see another wat (temple, place of worship).  This one was Wat Suthat.

Right outside Wat Suthat was the Giant Swing!   It used to be used as part of a religious ceremony. The pillars represent the mountains, the circular base represents the earth, and the space between is the seas.  Long ago, during the ceremony time, folks would actually swing on this and try to grab a bag of coins placed on the pillars.   Yipes!

Next up was Wat Pho, aka "Temple of the Reclining Buddha".  It's also known as the birthplace of Thai massage (which, if you haven't experienced, is A-MAZING!).

 The Reclining Buddha is 43 meters long.  His feet are most impressive, with mother of pearl inlay.  There are 108 panels on the soles, each representing how the Buddha may be represented--- flowers, dancers, white elphants, etc.

I got a kick out of this kitty paying homage to the statue outside.

I walked and walked and walked around the city (and avoided further scammings- yeah!)  The tour itinerary ended at a rooftop bar set along the Chao Phraya River.    It was definitely time for a nice refreshing drink!


Across the river was Wat Arun, which was beautifully lit up...


 And even more gorgeous as the evening came.

Despite semi-falling for my first (and last!) scam, I had a wonderful first day touring the capital city of Thailand.